Wine & Words

We continue our consideration of American wines this month with two wineries that have become reliable customer favorites year after year.

Pacific Rim (Walla Walla and Yakima Valleys, Washington)
This was originally a project of California “Rhone Ranger” Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz, California. Grahm wanted to make Riesling like the ones he had drunk in Germany...wines that are fresh and bright, with a bit of natural sweetness and a burst of palate-cleansing acidity. He saw this as a welcome alternative to the over-oaked, one-dimensional white wines that were pouring out of Central Coast California. Grahm’s first Pacific Rim Dry Riesling came out in 1992 and immediately garnered an enthusiastic following. For the first decade or so, the wine was a combination of grapes grown in Washington’s Columbia Valley with grapes from Germany’s Mosel River Valley. Demand for this wine grew as awareness of Washington state’s potential for making lovely, crisp white wines developed. Finally, in 2006 (several years after we had started carrying Pacific Rim at Wine & Words) a small band of Bonny Doon expats moved to the Northwest from California with a common desire to craft the best Riesling in America... thus, Pacific Rim became its own winery. One of the reasons for the winery’s name is that these Riesling afficionados, being West Coasters, related more to the cuisines of Asia and the Pacific than to the traditions of Riesling’s European homeland. They suggest these wines pair with spicy Thai or Szechuan food, Indian curry, or even Sushi.  I agree. But they sure go well with our fresh Downeast Carolina seafood, as well.
This month we showcase three Rieslings of varying styles and sweetness levels and the ever-popular Pacific Rim Chenin Blanc.
Pacific Rim White Flowers Sparkling Riesling (Yakima River Valley, Washington) Regular Price $16.95, Feature Price $14.41
This one was a revelation when we first introduced it a couple of years ago - a dry Sparkler of Riesling with beautiful floral notes and a refreshing clean finish. The low alcohol (11.5%) makes this a great companion for dinner or for sipping on the porch. And the package is gorgeous.
Pacific Rim Dry Riesling (Columbia Valley, Washington) Regular Price $13.75/ $11.69
This is the wine that launched Pacific Rim. The Riesling grapes are picked a little early so as not to contain their maximum sugar level. The Riesling juice is fermented at cold temperatures for 30 days and then aged in stainless steel tanks. They then leave their dry wines sur lie (keeping the wine on the yeast lees to increase the mouthfeel of the final product) post fermentation for five months and they stir the lees once or twice a week. The winemakers say it best: We use no oak and no malolactic on this wine — it's as pure and unmanipulated as it gets.
The result is a wine of 12.5% alcohol and only 0.75% resideual sugar, while the “Columbia Valley Riesling” that we Featured last week is only 11.5% alcohol with 2.3% residual sugar. That’s because the dry one fermented all of the grape sugars into alcohol and the slightly sweet one left some residual sugar unfermented. Simple wine chemistry.
Wine of the Year - 2009 Sommelier Challenge Double Gold Medal Winner - 2009 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
 
Pacific Rim Riesling (Columbia Valley, Washington) Regular Price $12.85/ Feature $10.93
This is the one I poured at Back Bay Cafe last weekend. It was very well received. As described above, this one has a bit of sweetness with a mouth-watering, dry finish…like a classic Mosel Valley Riesling. Alcohol 11.5% Residual sugar 2.3%

Pacific Rim Chenin Blanc (Columbia Valley, Washington) Regular Price $12.85/ $10.93
Though the folks at Pacific Rim are Riesling fanatics, they also make this one from Chenin Blanc, the grape that makes Vouvray in France’s Loire Valley.  1.2% of Residual Sugar (13.1% alcohol) to balance the slight natural bitterness of Chenin (look for the grapefruit rind finish). The wine is vividly bright with flavors of pear, quince and grapefruit essence with an eruption of floral aromas. An inspired complement to shellfish, grilled fish, soft cheeses and Middle Eastern food. The winemakers describe it as “key lime crème brulee” – Yummy!
 
 
 
 
Tobin James Wines (Paso Robles, California)
Tobin (Toby) James’ story is typically American. He grew up on a vineyard in Indiana, worked in a wine shop in Cincinnati and knew at the age of 18 that he would own a winery. He apprenticed at the Estrella River Winery (Napa), eventually being hired on full time and becoming their cellar master. From there, he headed to Eberle Winery (Paso Robles) to eventually make their wines with Gary Eberle. When Peachy Canyon started, the owner needed a winemaker. A deal was struck so that Toby would become the founding winemaker and also have the opportunity to continue making Tobin James Cellars' wine at the same facility. The very first wine Toby made (the 1985 "Blue Moon" Zin) won a spot on the coveted "top 100" wines of the year with the Wine Spectator. Toby's reputation continued to grow, and in 1993 he decided to build his own winery from the ground up on the site of an old stagecoach stop.  It might seem more natural to stroll into the old-fashioned western-style saloon, place your booted foot on the brass rail of the bar and order a shot of whiskey from the bartender. However, in the Tobin James tasting room, award winning wines are poured from behind the grand, antique 1860's Brunswick mahogany bar from Blue Eye, Missouri.
In 2010 Tobin James was honored as “2010 Paso Robles Wine Industry Person of the Year.”
All of these American red wines carry a Regular Price of $24.40 and a Feature Price of $20.74.
“Ballistic” Zinfandel
Zinfandel is the grape Tobin James cut his teeth on, and it is one of the signature reds of the Paso Robles region. I love this wine. The aroma jumps out of the glass to meet you, as the cherry red color catches your eye. This is what California Zin should be - bold, fruity and delicious. I’m grilling some Baby Back Ribs (from Acre Station, of course) while I write this. And I just popped the cork of my last bottle of the 2007. Dee-licious!
“Notorious” Cabernet Sauvignon
A couple of years ago, a customer came into the shop looking for “a good California Cab at a reasonable price.” Chef Yvonne turned him on to this one, and it’s been his favorite ever since. Fruitier than the snooty aristocrats of Napa, this is a Cab to savor with a steak or an old school chum.
“Made in the Shade” Merlot
Miles, the Wine Noodge in the movie “Sideways,” made famously disparaging remarks about “not drinking no !@#$% Merlot.” The joke was that the Bordeaux wines he became rapturous about with the girl he was trying to pick up are...mostly Merlot. Here Tobin James brings out the true flavor of the Merlot grape...heady, ripe and dark. Try it with a hearty meal and you’ll have it made in the shade.